A Play-By-Play of Everything Merzougan

I have been meaning to write a post about my trip to Merzouga (the desert) for a while now - it's been two weeks. Now that I've done my laundry from that trip, I think it's finally time to write about it. :)

We hopped on an Al Akhawayn University coach bus (fully equipped with footrests and comfy chairs but no toilet or WiFi) at approximately 2:24pm which was surprisingly early considering we were supposed to leave at 2:15pm.

Drove through rural Moroccan landscape and occasionally saw men randomly sitting by the side of the road or on a rock nearby.

There were small huts every once in a while surrounded by the rocky terrain.

Most of the time there were several huts in a clump.

Even though the huts were small and mainly made from carpets and/or wood, there was often a brightly painted white (with various other colors) mosque.

We stopped at a "reststop" which consisted of a small cafe-like place and gas pumps.

We were allowed one "free" drink (paid for by the program - mum and dad this is your money being spent well!).

I ordered a Moroccan mint tea.

It was time to go and my drink still hadn't come out...

Told me it was ready and they would bring it out to-go.

They hand it to me in a plastic cup with no lid.

I knew it wasn't going to last long on the bus with the bumpy roads...

Had two sips, burnt my tongue and threw it away (okay, so maybe your money wasn't well spent, but don't worry I got a drink on the way back and played it safe with a trustworthy coca-cola).

Learned all about ROTC and army programs from the guy sitting next to me.

Also learned the difference between shooting and hunting.

Probably took a nap.

Six hours later we arrived at our hotel in Erfoud.

Some people fled to the bar as if they were having alcohol withdrawal symptoms.

We ate dinner and hung out.

My room was a double with two beds and a bathroom.

I think the layout of this hotel was sort of like a resort but I don't know because I've never been to one (literally just googled "resort blueprint").

All the rooms were accessed from outside (like a strip mall) so it was basically like we had our own little house.

There was a nice pool and pretty flowers everywhere.

Oh, and a bar. Did I mention that already?!

The next morning, we ventured out to the town and bought some things at the souk.

There are traditional desert scarfs that the Berbers in the Sahara tie around their heads to shield off the sand.

I bought one as well as flowy pants.

From there, we traveled to Rissani, got a tour of the old medina/city and got information about various types of carpets made throughout Morocco.

They brought out jewelry too but I really had to stop spending money so I didn't buy anything.

From there we visited a tomb/mosque of Moulay Ali Cherif and there was a nice courtyard and beautiful mosaics.

We came out and there were 4x4's waiting for us and they brought us out to the desert.

They were driving on the road and then all of a sudden turned onto the sand/rough ground.

Who knows how they knew where they were going!

Some people were daring and sat out the window.

I was comfortably enjoying the breeze in the very back.

We arrived to our "hotel" called Kasbah Hotel Sahara Garden.

Just tried googling it and finally found it.

Apparently we (the students) stayed in "bivouacs" which is described on the website as "a determined encampment made with tents or improvised shelters. It is also commonly used to describe a variety of improvised camp sites such as those used by nomads in Sahara Desert. Nomad tents are specifically prepared to be able to be dismounted and taken from place to place during camel caravans."

There ya go.

Also, "[their] tents are made from traditional materials and create unique atmosphere around the dunes where our bivouac complex is located. Tents are made of camel wool, the perfect material for Sahara Desert tents as their thickness protects the sun and the heat from coming in, plus, its dark color creates shade. While it rains, the wool itself gets bigger, producing a water-proof material."

"Standard tents offer you the regular decorated nomad tent, where you'll spend the night inside a true Sahara ambiance." I guess that's what my friends got with all the ants in their beds.

Now you know more than you ever thought you would about Saharan tents!

Or at least the ones that tourists sleep in.

We then went on a camel ride into the sand dunes.

I named mine Majid.

He had a really big hump so he was a little uncomfortable to sit on.

We watched the sunset and it was beautiful.

When it got dark, we ate dinner and danced with a traditional musical group.

I got a lot of steps on my fitbit this day.

I choose to sleep in the tent so I could actually sleep.

A guy told me the sun would rise at 6am.

I woke up then, saw that it was already bright outside and went back to sleep.

We ate breakfast and left.

At this stage, we were all worn out and just wanted to get back to Ifrane.

To our own beds and to the coolness (the desert was HOT).

We stopped at the souk in Rissani on the way back and all forty of us walked together.

We didn't stand out at all...

We were brought to various shops and people bought a few things.

I bought a cold drink.

And another at the rest stop (remember the coke?).

After a nap, we got back to campus.

I don't think all the sugar was good for me...

Plus there were very windy roads through the mountains.

I didn't feel great but luckily I had finished all my homework.

I went to bed super early.

This was such a cool trip and I'm so glad we got this experience even though it may have been a bit touristy.

Since then, I have bombarded my brain with more Arabic, broken my headphones, bought new headphones, taken another trip to Fez, written an Arabic essay, drank way too much soda on a daily basis, given in and bought scissors and tape, started watching Grace and Frankie on Netflix, made ghetto flashcards out of notebook paper, celebrated my 21st birthday without a drop of alcohol, burned slightly and reiterated lovely tan lines, gone to the gym once, decorated my room, still haven't experienced a non-western toilet, and made lots of memories with friends!

Fun fact: The Moroccan national language is the Moroccan Arabic dialect, Darija, but the languages used on a daily basis are Moroccan Arabic, Berber, some Standard Arabic, some French, and some Spanish (and Darija is largely a combination of them all!).

Disclaimer: pictures are not necessarily in order chronologically.

Largest oasis in North Africa

Photoshoot at the hotel in Erfoud :)

Caitlin and me rocking our "camel" pants

Tour guide in Rissani

Yes, I have made human friends

Everything here is called "cafe restaurant" and I'm not sure why...

Tomb/mosque

Sun setting

Spices in souk

Camel parking lot 

Pool at hotel in Erfoud

Ramadan Kareem!

I can't believe I've already been here for almost a week. Time flies when you have four and a half hours of Arabic every day!

Just like every time I travel, I questioned my life decisions of coming here during the first few days and really missed home. Now that I am getting over my cold and have pushed through jetlag, I am a lot happier!

It has been an experience being in a Muslim country during Ramadan and I have learned so much. Everyone else is probably a lot more educated than I am - I tend to learn about things when I come in contact with them and don't have the general knowledge most people have. This is probably a weakness of mine but I wanted to share things I have learned in class and from others about what happens during Ramadan:

Ramadan is a holy month of fasting for those who are Muslim. From sunrise to sunset, they are not allowed to eat, drink, smoke, or engage in sexual relations. This is a cleansing month and in the Quran it is stated to help Muslims become healthier as well as become closer to God. This time is set apart to commemorate the first revelation of the Quran to the Prophet Muhammad.

All Muslims should fast except those who are traveling, sick, or pregnant among a few others. Also, children are not required to fast.

Muslims have suhur (the pre-fast meal) before dawn which, in Morocco, happens before 3:30am. Either they will stay awake until this time or wake up so they can eat and drink.

Luckily, the weather in Ifrane is mild and breezy as we are in the mountains but the cities can get quite hot. When I arrived, a woman at the Casablanca airport asked me where I was heading and when I told her I was taking the train to Fes, she says, "ah, but we don't go to Fes at this time of year - it's too hot!" Imagine not being able to drink water during this extremely hot weather! Many Moroccans will take naps during the day and keep themselves busy so they don't think about food. One Moroccan told me that the campus is a lot quieter than usual summer sessions because people don't want to have to take classes during Ramadan.

The marche and shops are bustling with people in mid-afternoon who are all buying food for their feast later. My Arabic professor brought up an interesting point. He asked us if we think people spend more or less money during this month. We weren't really sure but he mentioned the saying that says "never go to the grocery store hungry." This is what Muslims have to do so they end up spending more, perhaps even double. The marketplace is even busier in the last 10 days of Ramadan as Muslims are buying new clothes for the end celebration.

At about 5 or 6pm the downtown is empty and shops are closed as shopkeepers are also preparing food. Around 7:30pm the call to prayer sounds and people make their way to the mosque to pray. A cannon sounds and this is the signal that people can eat again.

The breaking of the fast meal is called iftar and starts with consuming dates which is how Muhammed ended his fast. The traditional places I have eaten also serve hard boiled eggs, with cumin and salt, and chebakia which is a Moroccan sweet made of deep-fried dough covered in honey syrup and sprinkled with sesame seeds.

Ramadan lasts 29 - 30 days depending on when the crescent moon is sighted, both at the beginning and the end. Apparently, Morocco likes to be different so they generally start Ramadan one day after most other countries start. :) Here, Ramadan started on the 7th of June and will end on the 5th or 6th of July.

Each country has a different time for when they eat suhur and iftar because it is all about when the sun rises and sets. Some countries will have over 20 hours of sunlight and in most cases, they will agree upon a set amount of time when they will fast because over 20 hours isn't too feasible.

Devout Muslims will also spend time reading the Quran and praying during this time as well as giving to charity. I attended a dialogical Bible study last night where we looked at texts from the Old and New Testament as well as the Quran. It was very interesting to compare and contrast the different traditions regarding fasting.

I didn't expect to write this much but maybe now you know more about Ramadan than you ever thought you would. :) Hopefully, including Moroccan specifics was interesting too!

The food places on campus are open during the day, mainly for the international students who are not observing Ramadan. It is still important to be respectful and not blatantly eat and drink in public. I will be traveling to Fes tomorrow which will be another fun adventure!

Fun fact: Each year, Ramadan is 11 days earlier than the year before so it isn't always on the same dates. This is due to its lunar nature.

I Want to Adopt a Moroccan Boy

I don't know how often I'll have time to post updates but I have free time now, and nothing else to do... Sometimes it might just be some of my thoughts that I decided to write down. Other times it may be a list of things I did. Depends on how much I do and how often I allow my mind to wander. :)

This was my whole journey to get to Al Akhawayn in Ifrane, Morocco: Drove  to JFK airport, flew to Casablanca, took a shuttle from the airplane to the airport, followed the crowds through the airport through passport control and to baggage claim, took a short train ride to Casa Voyageur, took a longer train ride to Fes, was picked up by AUI people and drove in a van to the Fes airport, and drove in the van to school. Obviously, it was tiring and long but I found out other people's itineraries were a lot longer and more complex! So, I have nothing to complain about.

Even though I thought the plane ride would be a breeze, it was probably the worst part of my trip. The guys next to me put all the pillows and blankets on my seat and left me to deal with them some how. They didn't seem very approachable so I put them at my feet leaving me with very little leg room. It was also hard to find a position that was comfortable to sleep in. This is my first time traveling without Randall since we have been dating (which is hard enough) plus it was so hard to resist the urge to rest my head on the guy next to me's shoulder! There was also a screaming two-year-old in the row in front of me so that made sure it was impossible for me to sleep for very long periods at a time.

It was relatively easy to get through the airport and get a train ticket even though this was what I was most scared/nervous/stressed about. Everyone in the airport spoke English and things were going well. Once I got on the train everything was in French and Arabic but I managed to figure out what to do by following everyone else. Sometimes men would try to help me with my suitcase up and down stairs which was super nice but in the beginning I was afraid they would ask for a tip and I wouldn't know what to do. After a while, my arms started to hurt though so I gave in. It was just a little nerve wrecking traveling by myself and not knowing exactly what to do. When I got on the train to Fes, though, I was glad I had gotten that far and knowing that people would meet me at the Fes train station was comforting.

The best part of the trip was being on the train to Fes. I was in a carriage by myself at first but then a young boy and his mother joined me. HE WAS THE CUTEST FREAKING CHILD EVER. He sat there quietly and obediently and then would giggle every once in a while. I could go on and on and on about how cute he was, but I'll spare you. At one point, he was curled up on the seat with his head on his mother's lap and he tapped his leg and she put her hand there and asked if that's what he wanted and he nodded. It was adorable.

The scenery was also very pretty and vastly changed from fields and huts to cities with tall houses and hustle and bustle. I was so in awe of the landscape but I dozed off a couple times because I was so tired. I felt a bit more rested after the train ride though.

I have yet to meet my roommate or have any official introduction to the school and classes etc. Classes start tomorrow at 8am so I guess I'll figure it out there! Some of the other students who got here last week have showed us around a bit and even brought us into the town to the market which was cool! I got sunburned, but what's new...

I have had a headache since we got here which might be in part due to weird eating habits and not drinking enough water. I think it's gone now, though, inshallah, so we shall see what tomorrow brings!

I'm giving up with the internet now... It is being so finicky so I'm not even going to try and put in pictures!

Fun fact: Morocco is slightly larger than California.

Pre-Departure Thoughts

I was asked by Bentley to write a series of blog posts about my Moroccan adventure. Who knows if they will end up posting them anywhere but I decided to post my first one here as well. Maybe I'll be fancy and add a link to it if they end up posting it! Don't worry, mum edited it so it should be free of error... Other things I post on here, there's no guarantee. :)

This year, unpacking my belongings from school was a little more complicated. After I realized that having a staring contest with totes full of my things wasn’t going to unpack them, I finally started to take things out and sort out what I would need for the summer. Not only was I trying to keep the essentials, but I also needed to think about what I will need to bring with me on my trip abroad. I haven’t fully realized it yet, but I will be spending June and July taking an intensive Arabic class in Ifrane, Morocco.

I figured I should probably keep some stationery to write home, a notebook for class, a plug adapter, and warmer and conservative clothing. So as soon as I thought I was finished with unpacking, I started thinking about packing things up again. Luckily, this time I’ll bring fewer things.

My love for travel must have begun at a very young age. Growing up in Ireland gave me the chance to travel some in Europe and always to the States in the summer. My passion for the Middle East region, in particular, intensified three years ago. I headed out on my own to Beirut, Lebanon as part of a gap year program I participated in after high school. After considering all the places I could go, Lebanon was the place that stood out to me as different and exciting. I taught in an English school, picked up some Levant Arabic, and fell in love with the people and the culture.

Ever since then I have longed to go back, and just looking at pictures makes me very nostalgic. I have done a lot since then, though, and Bentley University has given me a great education so far and I have continued to grow. Part of my Liberal Studies Major (LSM) requires me to study abroad and take two levels of a language. I was eager to continue in Arabic, and it seemed like a perfect fit to be immersed in the language while studying abroad in an Arab country. I chose the summer program so I can focus on Arabic and I also don’t want to be away from Bentley for a whole semester!

Al Akhawayn University (AUI) offers the exact program I was looking for and I am looking forward to exploring a new country that has African, European, and Arab ties. It has been hard to know what to expect because Bentley students have not gone to Morocco in a long time, and that also made communications with AUI rocky in the beginning. Nevertheless, I am looking forward to this incredible experience and slightly nervous about what to expect, and my parents are glad that I’ve chosen a safer country than Lebanon. But I’m ready. I’m ready to embark on this new adventure.

Fun fact: The movie Casablanca was not filmed in Morocco.